Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Monkey encounters and zoo night tour


Our first trip of the day was to the Community Baboon sanctuary. Everyone awoke excited and piled into the van, but first we needed to get gas before our long drive there. To fill up the van, it took 290 dollars (Belizean).  Gas costs 10.59 per gallon, and when converted to US dollars, is 5.28 per gallon! Once we arrived at the sanctuary we came into the museum entrance and waited on our guide. Inside the museum, one wall was dedicated to Women in Conservation, and it made me so happy to see my heroes highlighted. I took a picture beside the sign, hoping to one day become another one of those women in conservation. The museum was interesting, but the hike and monkey encounters were amazing.


To start off, I’ll go ahead and say that the Baboon sanctuary doesn’t have baboons. It is a common occurrence here in Belize for animals to be called by some colloquial term that isn’t what it actually is. Common names are deceiving that way, but some examples include “Tiger” for all cats in Belize, “Mountain Cow” for tapirs, “Bamboo chicken” for iguanas, and finally, “Baboon” for all monkeys. The two types of monkeys that live here in Belize are the spider monkey and the howler monkey. Howler monkeys have had a good success rate when they are released back into their natural habitat with efforts on conserving their land and population. We set out in search of some howler monkeys, and we were not to be disappointed.


The area surrounding the museum had many hiking trails and forested areas. Our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable and explained to us the natural and ancient uses of the forest. I was amazed at how nature really does provide everything we need, even without our manipulation. I walked through the dense, green forest, new smells captivating my nostrils, new sights striking my eyes, and I breathed a sigh of bliss and healthy life. Everything in that moment felt right. All my goals since I was a little girl have been leading to this. Every small and big moment are moving me towards my life in union with the earth. To be in the jungle and learning was the essence of all I’ve hoped for. Our guide was a dark skinned man, older, full of intelligence and calm assurance. He spoke in a creole accent and when he asked someone what their name was, it came out, “Wadd yeer neyhm?” Hearing his voice was a whole part of the experience. Some examples of things we learned from him include:

1. You can use the Mahogany tree’s bark in a special way. If you soak it in warm water and then soak your feet in the red water, you will obtain a long-lasting coating/stain on the bottom of your feet. However, this layer will prevent for feet from sweating or smelling as it blocks the pores for a few weeks.  

2. Air roots hang from high in the trees down to the lower levels of the forest and they are relatively pliable. When you begin to burn the tip of one, it has a nice smell and will burn until the end of the stick. Air roots made up the first incense, and was used by the Mayans in their rituals.

3. One really cool symbiosis that I had read about in school but never seen in life was the bull-horn acacia and the ants that inhabit them. The large spikes on the tree are hollow, and they are inhabited by ants that aggressively defend the plant. We popped off one horn and were able to shake out the larva of the ants inside.




4. In ancient times, people had no true stitches when a wound needed to be closed. To hold the skin attached, soldier leaf-cutter ants were attached to the skin, to which they clamped and didn’t let go, and then the ant’s body was flicked off. Several ants’ pinchers in a row were applied to hold wounds together until healing occurred and the pinchers fell out of the skin.

5. A plant called the ‘hotlips’ is used as a natural medicine when women are pregnant to relieve the symptoms of pregnancy. The flower is shaped like a certain part of the female’s anatomy, and it is traditionally believed that plants shaped like body parts help heal those body parts. The flowers are boiled in water, which is then rubbed over the pregnant stomach to reduce clotting and pain.

6. Our guide joked that if you want a tattoo, there is no need to use needles. He picked up a plant from beside the creek, laid it on his arm, and gave it a good smack. The plant left white residue in a perfect leaf shape on his skin, and it stayed for the rest of the day.

7. The locals make wine from the cashew nut. According to our tour guide it is, “guaranteed to get you high for 1 to two days.” None of us tried the stuff.

8. We found nature’s first pregnancy test, as well. A small yellow flowered plant was used by women to detect a pregnancy. When urinated on, if the test was positive, the plant leaf would turn yellow, and it is claimed to be up to 99% accurate.

After we had walked blissfully through the forest for some time, we heard a most shocking sound. I can only describe it as a mix of a growl, scream, engine starting, and roar. Turns out that sound belonged to howler monkeys. Howler monkeys have a special bone in their throat that allows them to howl so loud. We followed the noise for a bit and then looked up. All over the tree above us was a troop of howler monkeys. 


Their black bodies hovered in the canopy, perched seemingly precariously, and as they noticed our guide with leaves to share, they came down from the trees. These monkeys are not considered tame, but they are habituated to human presence. About 5 were brave enough to come to the branches just above our heads, and we were able to hand them leaves. Their facial expressions were beyond description, and amazingly enough, I was able to differentiate between each just by their faces—in a very human way. One of the howlers had a one month old baby clinging tightly to the hair of her tummy and nursing occasionally as she fed. 

My heart was bursting with affection for the most beautiful, little creature that God could produce. The monkeys ate around us for some time, exploring us and what we had to offer, then made their way back up the tree. The big male of the group stayed in the tree and howled the whole time, but we were able to get quite close with mommas and juveniles. It was a surreal experience, and one of the best of my life.



Though the monkeys were the highlight, we did get to see some pretty cool other stuff today. We saw the basilisk (or Jesus Christ lizard) that runs across the top of the water in a most amazing fashion. We also saw a cross between a hummingbird and a kingfisher, known as the rufus-bellied jacamar. It was a beautiful bird with black wings and a sparkling, bright green breast. We stopped by the side of the Belize River and saw another troop of monkeys across the water in the trees, and saw a croc swimming in the water. We stopped at a road stand and bought coconuts to drink from afterwards and headed to our new abode.


The house we stayed in for the evening was superb. The large wooden and screened two-story dwelling was sprinkled throughout with natural woods, hammocks, and bedrooms for our sleeping. It is owned by a married couple of documentary film-makers who have made clips for Planet Earth, Life, and BBC. They’ve housed Steve Erwin, and they are having David Attenborough down in a little while to film vampire bats. It was a lovely place to stay and had two sweet dogs to play with.

In the evening, we went for a night tour of the zoo! The nocturnal animals, such as cats and kinkajous received treats from us and our guide, and it was really neat to see them active in their natural hours. During our tour, the sky opened up and we were showered with fat drops of hard rain. It was the first rain we had experienced all trip, and because it was warm outside, we were in a densely planted zoo at night, and the animals were calling all around us, it was a most surreal and amazing experience. We walked around in it for some time before it let up. Day tour of the zoo tomorrow! 

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